Yellowstone Ski Shuttle

Think of the snowcoach as a sleigh ride to the trailhead, albeit a yellow sleigh, with heat, large windows, and oversized tires that can easily traverse through Yellowstone’s winter conditions. The ski shuttle is the best way to get deep into the park and experience its quiet expanse without having to summon the endurance for a marathon ski.

A good topographical map is important, but the best place to start when planning a cross-country ski excursion is at the Bear Den Ski Shop at the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel or Old Faithful Snow Lodge. Ski conditions change daily, and the folks who work in the ski shop have the latest updates.

We arrived in early January with a reservation for a morning snowcoach shuttle to Indian Creek.  After some suggestions from the shop, we quickly changed our plan for the day’s ski, avoiding the ungroomed Sheepeater trail, which hadn’t seen any recent ski traffic and likely would have involved some difficult trail-breaking and wind-blown stretches.

Our fellow skiers in the 13-passenger snowcoach would spend the day skiing the loops at Indian Creek, which include both groomed and ungroomed trails—some suitable for beginners. Indian Creek is also home to a warming hut with a wood stove and room to eat lunch or rest for a bit, making it an ideal base camp for the day. The snowcoach shuttle would return to pick up these skiers later in the afternoon.

However, we decided to forgo the return ride and ski the snow-packed road from Indian Creek through Swan Lake Flats, then jump on the Bunsen Peak Trail that winds back down to Mammoth Hot Springs, for a total of 10 miles. (Note: this trail is only for experienced skiers in excellent physical condition.) Once the shuttle departed, we had the snow-packed road to ourselves, and we quickly covered four flat-ish miles into Swan Lake Flats, where the Gallatin mountains rose in their snowy glory, and three bull elk grazed in a snow-covered meadow. We waited for a bison to cross the road and took in the view. A fox’s tracks led us onto the Bunsen Trail, which circled Bunsen Mountain and finished with a steep, switch-backing descent into Mammoth with views of Sheapeater Canyon and the Gardner River. (Good snowplow skills are key for enjoying this trail in the downhill direction.)

One of the magical things about skiing in Yellowstone is reading the tracks of wildlife in the snow, and the Bunsen Trail didn’t disappoint.  Whether you’re ten or forty, it’s still a thrill to trace the meanderings of a mouse, the telltale tracks of a snowshoe hare, the deep prints of bison and elk, and the deliberate line of a bobcat.  If you’re lucky, you may be able to watch coyotes and foxes hunting on snow-covered meadows throughout the park. Whether you’re a beginner or have been cross-country skiing for years, skiing in Yellowstone will be an adventure you’ll never forget.

How to Go

The skier shuttle from Mammoth to the Indian Creek and Swan Lake Flats can be reserved ahead of time at check-in with the front desk at the Mammoth Hotel. Here, you can visit the Bear Den Ski Shop, view their daily ski conditions board, and get suggestions from the staff. The expert staff can help you with rentals, lessons, ski repairs/waxings, ski shuttles, guided tours, and ski trail info. There are two main loops in the Indian Creek ski area. Shuttle drivers can also drop you off at Swan Lake Flats to access the Bunsen Peak Trail. Both the Bunsen Peak Trail and the Snow Pass Ski Trail will take you back to Mammoth if you choose to return on your own two skis.

If you are staying at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, you can access about 70 miles of cross country ski trails in this area. Many of these trails provide access to the unique thermal features where bison, elk, and other animals take advantage of the warm ground.  Old Faithful Snow Lodge also offers ski shuttles to explore some of the off-the-beaten-path ski trails around Fairy Falls, Lone Star Geyser Basin, or Biscuit Basin. Visit the Bear Den Ski Shop at the Snow Lodge for trail conditions, rentals, lessons, repairs, guided tours, and more.

More information on cross-country ski trails in Yellowstone National Park can be found here.

What to Bring

I always ski with a pack of essentials that includes, at a minimum, food, water, a small first aid kit, a fire starter, and many layers. Indian Creek and Swan Lake Flats can be considerably colder than Mammoth Hot Springs and can be windy. I start with a good insulated jacket and take layers off as I warm up during the day. I also carry both a pair of gloves and a pair of warmer mittens. For more information on what to pack for a winter visit in Yellowstone, click here.

Jennifer White is a writer living in Paradise Valley, Montana. Her fiction and nonfiction have appeared in a variety of publications, from Women’s Adventure to Backcountry Journal, Narrative Magazine, and Conde Nast Traveler online. She has served as an artist-in-residence in Glacier National Park and enjoys calling the Yellowstone region home.

Originally published Feb. 6, 2019